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Baby Bed / Crib

by:Aoqi     2020-04-14
Why did you do that when I learned that I was going to be a father, my first thought was that I wanted this little guy to be his first bed.
I think the reason for this is a good idea: 1.
You can build a style that fits into your bedroom or children\'s room, 2.
Choosing your own material means you can make sure that you don\'t use any potentially harmful substances.
Price is not an advantage: Although the total amount of materials is about 200 euros (
About $230 depending on the type of wood you obviously use)
It\'s easy for you to buy a crib and it\'s easy to spend more than 50 hours on this project
Originally I wanted to do the whole design with solid wood.
But I also don\'t like the usual wooden bar design for both sides/railings
I don\'t think this open design is \"comfortable\" enough \".
I\'m from a very expensive (1000€)Scandinavian-
Design baby crib using cut-
Instead, we took out plywood and decided to do something similar. While the pole-
This design is more like a wall with windows --
I like this idea.
I decided to use plywood on the side board and at least solid wood on the head and foot board.
Size: There are usually two sizes for footprint: 120x60 cm and 140x70 cm.
I decided to use the smaller version.
Of course the child will sleep longer in a bigger bed, but that doesn\'t mean it will want to sleep there --
I\'m looking forward to building some kind of car. or spaceship-
Shape the children\'s bed when time comes. So the baby-
The bed does not need to fit the child forever.
SIZE: Height the decision here is saferelated.
Once the baby can stand up, it will take at least 60 cm between the mattress and the top of the side if you don\'t want your offspring to climb over the mattress.
I chose the overall height of 80 cm and it was safe and a good height when standing in front of the bed.
Size: Error-prone when purchasing and cutting materials, remember that 120x60 cm is the size of the mattress, so everything around needs to be a little bigger: Side
The board of directors needs 120 cm thick and thick head walls (so about 124cm).
Because of the bright colors, birch plywood was used on the side plates.
15mm thickness in stability (
Should not bend under any circumstances
Baby may be stuck between mattress and side Board)
It doesn\'t look too big either.
To contrast with plywood, I used alder wood on both sides of the head and foot.
Since it was not possible to get a width of more than 60 cm, I decided to build some foot extensions so that the side panels would not \"hang in the air\" but stay on the extended head board.
Choose the material you like and the thickness needs to be at least 19mm as the big screws will be placed there to fix the sides of the plywood. 80cmx60cm (2x)
Add some spare material for foot extension.
Other things and tools the bed is mostly made when you have something above, but you also need some insert nuts and screws to fix the sides on the head board, and Rest of the batten frame attached to the side of the head.
The batten frame itself can also be built or purchased (
These are not expensive).
In order for the air to flow through the mattress, you should use the batten frame instead of the board.
Tools: electric puzzle, plane, sandpaper load, 60mm hole saw, column drill (
Handheld can also)
Japanese wood saw.
FinishI went to buy wood oil, which can be purchased as an organic and children\'s safe (\"saliva-
Safe \"/speichelsicher).
A little color on the short side (Black cherry oil)
And match with the rest of the room interior.
I found a supplier specializing in organic wood oil, please leave me a message if you need details.
Keep in mind that the finished Wood should have a week to dry completely before putting the child into the finished wood.
I started making head boards.
After planing the edges, I need to attach some rest to the batten frame at least 5 cm thick.
Finally, I stuck some plywood together to make this bar thicker at the end.
Because the head plate is as wide as the mattress (60cm)
, The foot of the side board rest needs to stick to the outside of the head board.
Of course, solid wood should be thicker (19mm)
Than the side plate (15mm)
But the remaining 4mm will be cut off later.
My partner wanted to make a sloping cut for the foot of the board to make the whole thing look not too big.
I didn\'t know how to draw the curve correctly at first, but the solution is a temporary template.
Pay attention to the strengthening of adhesion at the foot-
I don\'t want my feet to fall down when you push the bed somewhere.
Preparionsi has a second layer of plywood attached to the top, so it is better to catch it.
Cutting \"windows\" in side panels is by far the most time --consuming step.
I. a sentence about measures: it is said that the ideal distance between tracks (Usually: Pole)is between 4. 5 and 6. 5 cm.
It is important to respect this, otherwise the head may get stuck --
You don\'t want to explain to your partner why this is happeningbuilt bed.
Then start marking and cutting.
Temporary compasses help to get a good curve for the low end cut.
I used a 6 cm hole saw so gave the width of the cut and decided to make a track with a width of 4. 5cm.
This resulted in a total of 11 cuts on both sides.
There were 11 cuts on the side plate and I ended up with 44 holes.
Remember, never go through the wood once!
Always over half and then cut from the side to avoid the top layer of the plywood being torn off.
So it\'s actually 88 cuts. yay.
After that, everything between the two holes must leave.
I started cutting with a hanging saw, but once there was enough space for the Japanese wood saw, I finished cutting with this one.
With the Japanese saw, it is very easy to make a long straight cut.
Using the clip, I put everything together to mark the overlap.
Pay attention to the wood under your feet (19mm solid)
Thickness of specific side (15mm plywood).
This is one of the parts where the Japanese saw came in handy: just open the side plate and cut off the overlapping part.
Drill holes for screws to enter (
I use 10mm bolt nut and stainless steel screw, M5)
Prepare all wooden parts for sanding and finish.
Pay attention to the board where the hole is located?
Yeah, it was supposed to be a side board, but I messed up.
I was wondering if I could do something useful with a hole cut.
Then I thought, if I stuck them together, they would be perfectly placed in the pantry --cutouts.
They did a fairly stable rest for the batten frame, due to the fact that the cut started at different heights and even had some room for adjustment.
Lift the little guy from the bed and your back will thank you for the mattress you lifted.
Before finishing, it is important to polish each part as much as possible to make all surfaces smooth.
No bit of wood will loosen (choking hazard)
Or extend in any way (skin injuries).
I use 120 of the sand, then 180 of the sand, oil, and then polish with 240 of the paper.
There are many surfaces, but the smooth result is worth the effort.
Like most projects, it\'s longer than I thought it would be in the first place.
I learned a lot about how to destroy plywood
Surface by polishing the shape of the wood instead of using it.
Sure: Measure twice, cut once.
List of materials-
15mm plywood-2 sheets
19mm 80 x60cm-2 solid board
Solid wood for feet, 4 x 10x 8cm-
Additional plywood at the top of the side panel and frame bracket-
Materials can build your own batten frame if you want.
Using the Pine Bar, no more than 10 cm between the two-
Load of sandpaper (120, 180, 240)-wood glue-
Insert screw cap and matching screw-child-
Safe Oil for finishing60mm hole saw-power jigsaw-japanese saw-
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