Aspen Log Toddler Bed
by：Aoqi
2020-04-14
I recently bought my first home and have always enjoyed coming up with ideas and designs for making furniture to equip my home.
I like the design of the country style and the wooden furniture very much.
I also like to spoil my fast 3 year old daughter and see what special things I can do for her.
In the project I did for her, there was a recently completed toddler bed, which became a quick priority since she learned how to climb out of her crib.
I got the logs for free from a neighbor, where the pasture was full of aspen trees.
I used one of the beds I found in my Google search as a design base and sold them online and I had nothing to do with them and they didn\'t even know I used their design, but I think I should praise them.
I \'ve only tried another log furniture project, a crib that I haven\'t finished yet, and it\'s a lot more complicated than the project.
I \'ve learned a lot through trial and error, and I want to say that this is a project that most people can do with a little ambition and access to various tools.
LogsCrib Spring (re-
Down from an old
If you do not have a metal crib spring, you can also use OSB or Batten to support the mattress. )
Original Gorilla Valley eye hook cable (
Or the old pet belt in this case)
Tools: Note: There are a lot of ways to make tenons on the log, there may be several instructable in the method, I will include the tools and methods I use, I am not saying they are the best, or the simplest.
Long and/or long kitchen knives-(
Or other ways to remove bark)Miter Saw (Chop Saw)
Track grinding machine-(
Belt, cylinder grinding wheel)
1/2 Bit2 Bit on Drill2in mortise and flat wing drill Bit January/4in paddle BitCarving KnivesPalm SanderSand paperSemi-
A year ago, when my daughter was too small for the bed, the glossy and clear polyurethane esturdy screwdriverlot of Cargo StrapsI thought of making a log toddler bed, but I know, if made from logs, they need time to dry and treat.
I\'m going to skip cutting the log and peeling the part of the bark, which could be a full description.
Once you have the log, the bark is peeled and there is enough time to dry, you can start the project.
Because I want to re-
Using the springs and mattresses of my daughter\'s crib, I can get the size of the bed from these springs and mattresses.
In this case, the spring is 26x55 inch.
I want my daughter to be able to crawl in and out on her own so I don\'t risk getting her hurt.
So I decided to make it low.
I love the design as it has a place to go in and out but there are still rails to get her in (
The most important thing for my daughter is not to let all her stuffed animal friends and books fall).
In the crib, she also likes to sleep next to her and feels safe, and now she can still do that.
Log size: about 4-4 posts-
2-5 in diameter\"
24 \"high for pedal 2-
The 30 \"height of the Head2 log is about 3-3.
For the side track 4 log, the diameter is 5 \"and the length is 57\", about 2. 5 -
The diameter of the cross section of the head and pedal is 3 \"and the length is 28\" and the log is about 2. 5 -
Diameter 3 \", 7.
5 \"The spindle length in the footboard4 log is about 2-2.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 15.
5 \"The spindle length in the headboard 2 logs about 3-3.
The diameter is 5 \", 34.
5 \"The rails8 log is supported on the side for about 2-2.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 12.
5 \"length of the spindle in the side support Track 2 log about 3-3.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 12.
5 \"The length of the spindle in the side support Track 2 log is about 2. 5 -
3 \"26 in diameter\" for side support. Now that all the logs are cut to a rough size, it\'s time to make the pedals.
I have a 2 inch d-cutter bit that fits a half inch bit and I use it like a pencil sharpener to make a 2 \"D at each end of the cross part of the pedal
Then I used a 2 \"Forstner drill bit to drill two holes on each of the two corner columns.
These holes are a bit tricky if your logs are not straight, and if possible it\'s better to get logs with both ends at the same angle, even if there is a bow or curve in the middle.
View the picture notes.
On my footboard, the holes drill up from the bottom for about 12 \"and 20 \".
Before trying to do the spindle, it is better to put the two cross parts on the pillar in the corner first.
Once you drill all the cross parts and get them in place, make sure that the pedal is still wide enough that the side rails that connect the headboard and pedal can be attached to the pillars in the corner and still fit the sides of the metal spring.
I forgot that, luckily my work barely stopped ,(
I do have to take them out a bit, not push them into the grave as I drilled them out).
At this point, you can start adding the spindle to the pedal.
Since the bed was for a toddler, I wanted to make sure the spindles were close enough so my daughter\'s head wouldn\'t get stuck.
The building code for the railing is that 4 inch of the balls cannot be placed between the spindle, so I decided to separate my balls by 4 inch.
In order to determine how many spindles you need and where to place them in the cross piece, it is better to find the log you want to use for the spindle.
Get the average diameter of the log and divide it by two to find the radius.
Then you can measure 4 inch from the first corner column, then add the radius of the first spindle, you now have the center point of the first spindle, for the second spindle, you measure from the mark you just made, calculate the radius of the first spindle, plus 4 inch, plus the radius of the second spindle, and then mark the center point of the second spindle.
If your spindle diameter is fairly uniform, then it\'s easy to know roughly how much you need before you start marking on wood.
Using the above method, the spindle may not be centered, and you may need to move the spindle a little back so that the space is less than 4 inch so that the last one is not too close to the post in the other corner.
The process is complicated to explain, but will be quick after you do it once.
To avoid leaving so many marks on the wood, you can place masking tape along the center line of the track so that you can mark and move them without leaving traces on the wood
On my bed, I ended up using a fatter spindle on the foot board and a thinner spindle on the head board, so I have 3 spindles on my foot board, bedside
Once you have marked the bottom rail, you can keep the spindle in place, make sure the spindle is straight up and down, and the marking on the guide rail on the eyeball.
When you do the marking and select the spindle, it is important to pay attention to which side you start ,(
I like to work from left to right from outside, you can number the spindle by writing at the bottom center of the spindle, I used a number on the first spindle on the pedal, like F1, it is important to number them and keep them in the same order, because the space between the measurement and the end depends on this. )
After marking the guide rail and numbering the spindle, you can now drill holes on the guide rail.
I used a portable table pair to fix the logs and drill holes with a 1 1/4 in paddle bit.
In order for the spindle to be installed in the hole, I only have the tenon knife position of 2 inch, so if the spindle is greater than 2 inch, I use the tenon knife to reduce the tenon knife to 2 inch, and then, I removed the other 3/4in with a carving knife and spindle sander.
Adjust the size of the joints to the appropriate size.
I have included a picture of the guide I made by drilling 1 1/4 in.
A hole in the head of the scrap wood so that I can put it on the Sander to test the spindle size as I move on.
To make tension at the end of the track, I used 2in.
A 1/2in socket cutter bit. drill.
The process is very simple and very similar to grinding a pencil with an electric pencil sharpener, except for the tenon knife, which is a normal machine that tries to rip off your arms and beat you with them.
If the logs are too large to fit on the tenon knife, you can erect them, quickly remove the large pieces with a hammer and chisel, and narrow them down to the size suitable for the tenon knife, then use the tenon knife to make them smooth and even.
Once you have all the tenons and mortices drilled and all the spindles installed, you can put all the parts together dry.
Sometimes you may have to go back and make some short ingots, or scrape off more and have them mounted far enough on the rails so that the rails can be mounted on the pillars on both sides.
A lot of attempts and mistakes are needed to get everything right.
If you can put everything together and have the right shape, make sure everything is right and is fairly level on everything, you can start to glue.
I want to keep everything tight but I still want to take the bed apart so I can put it in the house so I stick it together, in this way, the pedals are one piece, the headboard is one piece, each side rail is one piece, retaining the ability to remove the side rail from the head and the pedal.
Gluing is tricky, especially when you are outside after dark, and when you apply the wet glue to everything, the lights outside will turn off with the timer.
I decided that in order to make sure everything was properly combined, I would glue all the parts and assemble the whole bed while the glue was still wet.
To do this, I first assembled the spindle and guide rail of the pedal using the original Gorilla Glue (
Since it will expand and expand as it dries, I think it will help to fill the gaps and keep everything tight. )
Once I put it together, I put a ratchet around them to bring them to hold them, then I applied glue to the tension of the rails and inserted them into the pillars in both corners
Then I tied it together.
I was then able to move to the head board and side rails using the same bonding and bundling process.
Finally, when everything is done, I put the straps on the fully assembled bed and tighten everything so everything dries up and is in the right place.
The straps are your friends and you can\'t use too many straps!
I tied it up, covered it with a tarp, then put it in my driveway for the night and dry the glue.
After the glue is dry, you will find that some glue is squeezed out of the seam, bubbling outside the log, and easily removed with an old kitchen knife and sandpaper.
You will do a lot of sanding after the glue is removed.
I did try to polish off any big knobs, branches and rough knots before I put everything together, but at this point you need to look for rough places to be as smooth as possible, because your toddler will climb, roll and rub on every surface.
You also don\'t want blankets to be caught, so sand and sand, and then sand again, don\'t forget the end of the logs that make the sides support the logs to prevent them from rolling out like I did.
You also need to polish the tenons section that is still sticking out because these tenons cutters are very rough.
Once you are satisfied with the sanding, you can finish the sanding now.
I just used a clear half.
Glossy polyurethane finish, they assured me it was safe if my little beaver decided to chew the logs.
I applied polyurethane with a brush with the assembled bed.
I wore 3 or 4 loose coats on the whole surface.
Then put it at home for 48 hours.
Please note that the propane heater helps the polyurethane to dry, my drawing fingers do not freeze and be sure to have enough ventilation and carbon monoxide detectors.
Thank you for holding on, you almost arrived.
I don\'t want any bolts out of the bed, I just want to show the logs so I made an x-
The bracket under the mattress spring holds the end and side rails together.
I used an old pet belt and made x-with a plastic coated steel cable-
Bracket, with a rotary buckle in the middle, can tighten the cable.
You will also install the mattress spring at this step, which is my crib, and I bolt through the spring to remove the spring from the insert nut used on the wood.
You want to make sure the bed is horizontal and then measure up from the floor on the four pillars to make the spring level.
You are done now and you can add mattress, blanket and beautiful little girl in \"log bed her dad made her\" to make her sleep soundly because she likes to tell
This is worth it!
Now that you \'ve read all of this, you \'ve spent almost the same amount of time building the bed as I did.
I spent most of my time with 2.
5 Saturdays and hours of polishing, painting and assembling the bed at night.
Most of the time is spent making the spindle, and if I have 1/4 open tenon making the tension on the spindle instead of trying to polish them to the right size, it only takes 1 inch of the total time.
The bed was really comfortable and could handle my daughter jumping, sleeping and losing her temper on the bed.
I even put it on it and asked her to cover me with a quilt.
I\'m 6\'2 \", about 215.
Thanks for reading and happy building!
I like the design of the country style and the wooden furniture very much.
I also like to spoil my fast 3 year old daughter and see what special things I can do for her.
In the project I did for her, there was a recently completed toddler bed, which became a quick priority since she learned how to climb out of her crib.
I got the logs for free from a neighbor, where the pasture was full of aspen trees.
I used one of the beds I found in my Google search as a design base and sold them online and I had nothing to do with them and they didn\'t even know I used their design, but I think I should praise them.
I \'ve only tried another log furniture project, a crib that I haven\'t finished yet, and it\'s a lot more complicated than the project.
I \'ve learned a lot through trial and error, and I want to say that this is a project that most people can do with a little ambition and access to various tools.
LogsCrib Spring (re-
Down from an old
If you do not have a metal crib spring, you can also use OSB or Batten to support the mattress. )
Original Gorilla Valley eye hook cable (
Or the old pet belt in this case)
Tools: Note: There are a lot of ways to make tenons on the log, there may be several instructable in the method, I will include the tools and methods I use, I am not saying they are the best, or the simplest.
Long and/or long kitchen knives-(
Or other ways to remove bark)Miter Saw (Chop Saw)
Track grinding machine-(
Belt, cylinder grinding wheel)
1/2 Bit2 Bit on Drill2in mortise and flat wing drill Bit January/4in paddle BitCarving KnivesPalm SanderSand paperSemi-
A year ago, when my daughter was too small for the bed, the glossy and clear polyurethane esturdy screwdriverlot of Cargo StrapsI thought of making a log toddler bed, but I know, if made from logs, they need time to dry and treat.
I\'m going to skip cutting the log and peeling the part of the bark, which could be a full description.
Once you have the log, the bark is peeled and there is enough time to dry, you can start the project.
Because I want to re-
Using the springs and mattresses of my daughter\'s crib, I can get the size of the bed from these springs and mattresses.
In this case, the spring is 26x55 inch.
I want my daughter to be able to crawl in and out on her own so I don\'t risk getting her hurt.
So I decided to make it low.
I love the design as it has a place to go in and out but there are still rails to get her in (
The most important thing for my daughter is not to let all her stuffed animal friends and books fall).
In the crib, she also likes to sleep next to her and feels safe, and now she can still do that.
Log size: about 4-4 posts-
2-5 in diameter\"
24 \"high for pedal 2-
The 30 \"height of the Head2 log is about 3-3.
For the side track 4 log, the diameter is 5 \"and the length is 57\", about 2. 5 -
The diameter of the cross section of the head and pedal is 3 \"and the length is 28\" and the log is about 2. 5 -
Diameter 3 \", 7.
5 \"The spindle length in the footboard4 log is about 2-2.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 15.
5 \"The spindle length in the headboard 2 logs about 3-3.
The diameter is 5 \", 34.
5 \"The rails8 log is supported on the side for about 2-2.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 12.
5 \"length of the spindle in the side support Track 2 log about 3-3.
The diameter is 5 \"and the diameter is 12.
5 \"The length of the spindle in the side support Track 2 log is about 2. 5 -
3 \"26 in diameter\" for side support. Now that all the logs are cut to a rough size, it\'s time to make the pedals.
I have a 2 inch d-cutter bit that fits a half inch bit and I use it like a pencil sharpener to make a 2 \"D at each end of the cross part of the pedal
Then I used a 2 \"Forstner drill bit to drill two holes on each of the two corner columns.
These holes are a bit tricky if your logs are not straight, and if possible it\'s better to get logs with both ends at the same angle, even if there is a bow or curve in the middle.
View the picture notes.
On my footboard, the holes drill up from the bottom for about 12 \"and 20 \".
Before trying to do the spindle, it is better to put the two cross parts on the pillar in the corner first.
Once you drill all the cross parts and get them in place, make sure that the pedal is still wide enough that the side rails that connect the headboard and pedal can be attached to the pillars in the corner and still fit the sides of the metal spring.
I forgot that, luckily my work barely stopped ,(
I do have to take them out a bit, not push them into the grave as I drilled them out).
At this point, you can start adding the spindle to the pedal.
Since the bed was for a toddler, I wanted to make sure the spindles were close enough so my daughter\'s head wouldn\'t get stuck.
The building code for the railing is that 4 inch of the balls cannot be placed between the spindle, so I decided to separate my balls by 4 inch.
In order to determine how many spindles you need and where to place them in the cross piece, it is better to find the log you want to use for the spindle.
Get the average diameter of the log and divide it by two to find the radius.
Then you can measure 4 inch from the first corner column, then add the radius of the first spindle, you now have the center point of the first spindle, for the second spindle, you measure from the mark you just made, calculate the radius of the first spindle, plus 4 inch, plus the radius of the second spindle, and then mark the center point of the second spindle.
If your spindle diameter is fairly uniform, then it\'s easy to know roughly how much you need before you start marking on wood.
Using the above method, the spindle may not be centered, and you may need to move the spindle a little back so that the space is less than 4 inch so that the last one is not too close to the post in the other corner.
The process is complicated to explain, but will be quick after you do it once.
To avoid leaving so many marks on the wood, you can place masking tape along the center line of the track so that you can mark and move them without leaving traces on the wood
On my bed, I ended up using a fatter spindle on the foot board and a thinner spindle on the head board, so I have 3 spindles on my foot board, bedside
Once you have marked the bottom rail, you can keep the spindle in place, make sure the spindle is straight up and down, and the marking on the guide rail on the eyeball.
When you do the marking and select the spindle, it is important to pay attention to which side you start ,(
I like to work from left to right from outside, you can number the spindle by writing at the bottom center of the spindle, I used a number on the first spindle on the pedal, like F1, it is important to number them and keep them in the same order, because the space between the measurement and the end depends on this. )
After marking the guide rail and numbering the spindle, you can now drill holes on the guide rail.
I used a portable table pair to fix the logs and drill holes with a 1 1/4 in paddle bit.
In order for the spindle to be installed in the hole, I only have the tenon knife position of 2 inch, so if the spindle is greater than 2 inch, I use the tenon knife to reduce the tenon knife to 2 inch, and then, I removed the other 3/4in with a carving knife and spindle sander.
Adjust the size of the joints to the appropriate size.
I have included a picture of the guide I made by drilling 1 1/4 in.
A hole in the head of the scrap wood so that I can put it on the Sander to test the spindle size as I move on.
To make tension at the end of the track, I used 2in.
A 1/2in socket cutter bit. drill.
The process is very simple and very similar to grinding a pencil with an electric pencil sharpener, except for the tenon knife, which is a normal machine that tries to rip off your arms and beat you with them.
If the logs are too large to fit on the tenon knife, you can erect them, quickly remove the large pieces with a hammer and chisel, and narrow them down to the size suitable for the tenon knife, then use the tenon knife to make them smooth and even.
Once you have all the tenons and mortices drilled and all the spindles installed, you can put all the parts together dry.
Sometimes you may have to go back and make some short ingots, or scrape off more and have them mounted far enough on the rails so that the rails can be mounted on the pillars on both sides.
A lot of attempts and mistakes are needed to get everything right.
If you can put everything together and have the right shape, make sure everything is right and is fairly level on everything, you can start to glue.
I want to keep everything tight but I still want to take the bed apart so I can put it in the house so I stick it together, in this way, the pedals are one piece, the headboard is one piece, each side rail is one piece, retaining the ability to remove the side rail from the head and the pedal.
Gluing is tricky, especially when you are outside after dark, and when you apply the wet glue to everything, the lights outside will turn off with the timer.
I decided that in order to make sure everything was properly combined, I would glue all the parts and assemble the whole bed while the glue was still wet.
To do this, I first assembled the spindle and guide rail of the pedal using the original Gorilla Glue (
Since it will expand and expand as it dries, I think it will help to fill the gaps and keep everything tight. )
Once I put it together, I put a ratchet around them to bring them to hold them, then I applied glue to the tension of the rails and inserted them into the pillars in both corners
Then I tied it together.
I was then able to move to the head board and side rails using the same bonding and bundling process.
Finally, when everything is done, I put the straps on the fully assembled bed and tighten everything so everything dries up and is in the right place.
The straps are your friends and you can\'t use too many straps!
I tied it up, covered it with a tarp, then put it in my driveway for the night and dry the glue.
After the glue is dry, you will find that some glue is squeezed out of the seam, bubbling outside the log, and easily removed with an old kitchen knife and sandpaper.
You will do a lot of sanding after the glue is removed.
I did try to polish off any big knobs, branches and rough knots before I put everything together, but at this point you need to look for rough places to be as smooth as possible, because your toddler will climb, roll and rub on every surface.
You also don\'t want blankets to be caught, so sand and sand, and then sand again, don\'t forget the end of the logs that make the sides support the logs to prevent them from rolling out like I did.
You also need to polish the tenons section that is still sticking out because these tenons cutters are very rough.
Once you are satisfied with the sanding, you can finish the sanding now.
I just used a clear half.
Glossy polyurethane finish, they assured me it was safe if my little beaver decided to chew the logs.
I applied polyurethane with a brush with the assembled bed.
I wore 3 or 4 loose coats on the whole surface.
Then put it at home for 48 hours.
Please note that the propane heater helps the polyurethane to dry, my drawing fingers do not freeze and be sure to have enough ventilation and carbon monoxide detectors.
Thank you for holding on, you almost arrived.
I don\'t want any bolts out of the bed, I just want to show the logs so I made an x-
The bracket under the mattress spring holds the end and side rails together.
I used an old pet belt and made x-with a plastic coated steel cable-
Bracket, with a rotary buckle in the middle, can tighten the cable.
You will also install the mattress spring at this step, which is my crib, and I bolt through the spring to remove the spring from the insert nut used on the wood.
You want to make sure the bed is horizontal and then measure up from the floor on the four pillars to make the spring level.
You are done now and you can add mattress, blanket and beautiful little girl in \"log bed her dad made her\" to make her sleep soundly because she likes to tell
This is worth it!
Now that you \'ve read all of this, you \'ve spent almost the same amount of time building the bed as I did.
I spent most of my time with 2.
5 Saturdays and hours of polishing, painting and assembling the bed at night.
Most of the time is spent making the spindle, and if I have 1/4 open tenon making the tension on the spindle instead of trying to polish them to the right size, it only takes 1 inch of the total time.
The bed was really comfortable and could handle my daughter jumping, sleeping and losing her temper on the bed.
I even put it on it and asked her to cover me with a quilt.
I\'m 6\'2 \", about 215.
Thanks for reading and happy building!
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